We’re in Ubud right now. Things have been busy the past two weeks – in a good way – and we both felt the need to get away to somewhere quiet and spend a few days regrouping. It’s hard to believe that we’ve been traveling for over 70 days. Our time, especially here in Bali, has been filled with diving, snorkeling, surfing, incredible food, wonderful people, exotic ceremonies, white-knuckled driving, but not a lot of time to sit and reflect about all of these experiences. Thus, we decided to head for the hills, find a quiet bungalow, and spend a few days sipping coffee and tea and taking walks through the region in order to slow things down and spend some time reflecting, as well as looking forward.
An offering is made at sunset, Bingin Beach, Bali.
We have 10 days left in Bali, at which time our visa expires and we need to make some decisions about what to do next. Our original intent was to leave Bali and head for Malaysia, making our way up the Malay peninsula and into Thailand. This is still our general itinerary, but we’re rethinking things a bit. Indonesia is just getting into it’s dry season, as is Malaysia. This is a good thing. If we head further north now, we’ll quickly hit the wet season in Thailand, as in Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Bhurma. This is a bad thing. We’re not put off by a little bit of rain, but the rain brings brings mosquitos which brings Malaria.
Malaria.
It’s simply astonishing how much conflicting information there is out there about Malaria. I have poured over government health websites, travel forums, guide books, spoke with health workers, other travelers, and still haven’t been able to get a comprehensive view of the best way to deal with Malaria. The only summary I can give that seems to be without conflict: The best way to prevent Malaria is to not get bit, and if you do get bit, no prophylactic is 100% effective. Wonderful. Did I mention side-effects?
Before we left for our trip, we each got a 3 month supply of Doxycycline. Neither of us wanted Larium as it increases the likelihood of getting bent when diving, not to mention it is an opiate (though people do pay good money for that) that has been linked to suicidal thoughts and horrible nightmares. Also, many regions in Southeast Asia have Larium-resistant strains of Malaria, the result of misuse of the drug. Malarone, which is the new kid on the block, has none of the side effects of Larium and is new enough where resistance hasn’t been established yet, but it’s extremely expensive and would have cost us each several thousand dollars to buy enough pills to last us for the trip. That pretty much left us with Doxycycline, a general antibiotic that kills the good with the bad and leaves 10% of people with extreme sun sensitivity. I can almost see the freckles on my arm laughing at me as I type this.
Almost all travelers we’ve met on this trip so far, including a Human Pathologist, have told us not to take the Doxycycline as a prophylactic. It’s a shotgun approach that does more harm than good and isn’t guaranteed to work anyway. A number of people have recommended taking Chloroquine coupled with either Paludrin or Proguanil. Maybe I’ll just rub citronella oil all over my body and run naked through the jungle.
Anyhow, with the wet season in hitting full swing further north, we’ve considered our options and have come up with 3 possible itineraries. They are:
- Continue on with our original plan by heading to Malaysia and working our way up to Thailand. In other words, quit worrying about Malaria and the perfect time to be places. We could spend a month working our way through Malaysia, and the better part of a month in Southern Thailand, where it is malarial free (only the northern part of Thailand, where it borders with Cambodia, is known to be Malarial). We could then move north as the wet season diminishes.
- We could fly to Kuala Lumpur and head right back to Indonesia for another 1 month visa. The problem is that, as much as we love it here, after two months in Bali we both feel ready to move on. We could, however, go visit some of the other islands. One idea is to fly to Flores, and then work our way back to Bali by bus and ferry over the course of several weeks. This would allow us to see the fabled colored lakes of Flores, the Kimodo Dragons of, err, Komodo, and the rice terraces and volcanoes of Lombok. These islands are all malarial but it is the dry season so risk is pretty low.
- Lastly, we could fly to China, and work our way down through Southeast Asia instead of up. China is a big place and summer is a good time of year to be there. After our visa in China expires we could head for Thailand, via Laos or Cambodia.
Anyone have any thoughts or opinions on our next move? In the meantime, I’m heading to G-Land for 4 days to surf the wave of my dreams. I’ve done quite a bit of research and everything seems to be fine in G-Land, with no problems from the earthquake and no real threat from the volcano. Julie will be hanging back in Bali for this one. As nice as a camp in the jungle with a bunch of surfers and snakes sounds, she’s not too keen.
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Comments
It’s actually not the surfers (they’re quite nice to look at) it’s the giant snakes with an appetite for blonds.
Nice to see what is in your head and it will be interesting to see what comes out. So far so good. What about tea research… When I think of Asia and snakes the image takes on a large size like Anaconda—-run screaming from the scene….....Dun and I are off to school for four days.
Nice to see what is in your head and it will be interesting to see what comes out. So far so good. What about tea research… When I think of Asia and snakes the image takes on a large size like Anaconda—-run screaming from the scene….....Dun and I are off to school for four days. The image of snakes is probably South America not Asia…one can hope.
Julie, Carol Lyn loved G-land, we took walks up the “wild coast’ each day when I was surfed out and you will never see a more pristine or rugged jungle coast. And just getting there is an adventure in itself. The camp itself is pretty nice, run very well, and the surfers are pretty laid back due to how surfed out everyone is during a swell. On the other hand, it is not cheap to stay there, even if you are not surfing.
Kai – crack it each dawn and you will get an hour or so of uncrowded glass, then the wind will come up onshore for a couple of hours. Then the offshores start up and everyone will be in the water – give them some time to surf out and get hungry and then slip out for your second session..
Larium is not a whole lot of fun – it torqued me pretty good, Carol Lyn less. However, malaria is even less fun – once you have it, you have it for life.
One advisory for consideration – WHO just released new info on the Avarian bird flu. It has definitely transitioned and is now directly human to human transferrable. Indonesia, the current epicenter, is reporting a flu death every two days. Sumatra is getting hit hard, Vietnam the hardest, cases now being reported in Thailand as well. So if you head in that direction, stay out of the congested market places, packed buses, or similar.
I know the two of you had you hearts set on travelling in that region as it is both beautiful and inexpensive. think it through carefully, however, as there is a very real risk that is being taken very seriously by the health authorities.
it’s a big world, you have the time and funding, lots of places to visit on your dream year.
love,
Dad
p.s. – kai, get a deep one at g-land for me!!
Decisions, decisions. Any consideration of visiting the Philipines? Lots more islands. New Caledonia? Naw, I’d say continue the northward route, you will catch the tail end of the rainy season, but you can bear it, laughing freckles and all. Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, China, Laos and Malaysia all await to the north. I want to go out and join up for a month, I hope to fly out in a few weeks time, first to Vietnam, then to other lands. Wherever you go, there you are. But keep us posted. Much love, Trevor
As for avian flu, don’t get freaked out by the hype, it is still at a very small scale. The great fear is its potential rather than anything based on what has happened thus far.
Kai and Julie,
I love your commentaries. As for avian flu, yesterday I read the latest CDC info on Avian flu. It definitely is going human to human now. Stay away from chickens I am also a skeptic when it comes to the big hype about this but be careful.
I have taken Chloroquine every time that I went to Honduras with no side effects but you need to start it 2 weeks prior to the possible exposure and for 2 more weeks after you are out of the area for it to be effective.
My advise is to enjoy the trip…....and have fun.
get out now!!!!!!! go where they have real hospitals and no malaria!!!!!
hahahaha I heard if you rub gasoline on you bugs will leave you alone…...hahaha but the rain in taiwan when i was there was coming sideways….so have fun!!!bugs scare me and no way am i sleeping with big snakes!
Hi guys – I agree with your Dad, Kai. You don’t have to hurry or make rash decisions. You still have plenty of time left to go to a lot of places. China sounds good. Malaria sounds bad. Where ever you go, get information on what is going on in the area in regards to malaria, avian flu, medicine availability, etc. as soon as you get there. Coming back south through Southeast Asia after China sounds sweet. By then, you should know a lot more about what is going with the plethora of tropical diseases you might have to deal with when you get there. Have fun surfing and get some photos of those giant-ass snakes. Julie, no sushi -slutting while he’s away! Love you both – George
Hi Guys, I guess I’m not going to get to see a picture of Kai surfing on this site. Julie, I’m sure you can figure it out!
I hate the stuff about the Avian Flu. I know there is a lot of hype, but I don’t trust any of our govenments or the WHO. Of course if it happens, there is just as much chance that it will strike heaviest in SF as any place else in the world. It could travel fast.
I like the sound of China and visiting the tea growers. Give yourself a couple of days of NOT thinking about anything and get your mind outside of the box. I’m sure you’ll find your way. I love you. Dianne
Will someone help me out….what and where is G-land??
Kai, Julie….head for China.
G-Land = Grajagan. G-land is a very remote surf spot on the island of Java, located on a penninsula jutting out into the East Indian Ocean, accessible only by boat, as there is not a paved road within 40 miles of it. A surf operation provides the boat in, three meals a day, and a hut to sleep in. When the swells hit, the waves are as incredible as the surroundings are.
Hello everyone,
You should know Kai left for G-Land with a huge grin and the Doxycycline the DOH prescribed for us. Does any one know about changing medicine one we have started? Also we were able to get a box of Coartem for an emergency. Any suggestions?
We are aware of the human to human spread of Avian Flu and are equally concerned. Please don’t panic we are being careful . But thanks for helping us. It is so difficult to find consistent information on the subject any help is appreciated.
Well hello there my nomadic cousins,
I read your recent siutation and I would vote for continuing on with what you had planned. you can’t be afraid of what “might happen”. this is trip is for the experience so just let it ride and see what happens.
If you guys are still travelling the globe around the end of august, I am graduating school and would love a chance to meet up for a short while in some far distant land. Anyway there is my two cents…I’m sure you guys wil figure something out. Have fun!
Julie,
Regarding Avarian Flu – I recently hired a PHD for our company who is in charge of our global Environmental Health ands Safety. The primary reason he was selected was because of the two years of intensive research he has perfomed in building Flu Pandemic Preparedness programs. According to him, the CDC and WHO all agree we are pretty much in the low risk window at the period time – they just don’t know when that will change. so far Avarian Flu is tracking exactly like it was predicted two years ago – primarily only contacted by those with direct and intensive exposure to infected birds, then making the leap to human to human exposure on a continually escalating level – end sum is an unknown. Some infectious disease doctors believe it will end up being like the deadly flu of the early 20th century that killed millions, others believe it will be far less consequential – the only thing they all have in common is none of them think it is just going to go away without some sort of peak event.
So the thing is if you really want to travel to where it is thought to be of some risk, just take precautions, and be ready to change plans immediately if local conditions change.
Inodnesia is thought to be hard hit for many reasons, the most primary the high level of tuberculosis among the polulation. Essentailly 100% of those test in Indo prove positive for exposure to TB from some past air borne pathogen, someones cough spray they passed thru at some time – which is exactly how Avairan Flu will spread.
I know about the TB, as I came back from a trip to Bali 14 years ago in which we had spent a fair amount of time, and a year later during a routine medcial at the hospital I tested positive for TB when tested.
And you could be back in the US, step across the street, and some idiot could run a red light and take you out – there is no such thing as a risk free life.
so when Kai gets back from G-land, and I’d love to see the smile on his face when he does, do some research on your destinations and what common sense precautions you can implement, and then continue on with your dream trip!
Really liked your blog today, and am very impressed with your photo portfolio to date!!
love,
Dad
OH Julie B!
Here is my take on the Malaria thing. Lauren (my friend currently living in Zambia) was on anti-malaria drugs before she left, and then every day that she has been there (over a year now). She got malaria. Seems to me, that no matter how diligent you are with medication, there will always be a new strain of the Big M around, that your meds are useless against. As I understand it, that is the big problem with Maleria worldwide (ok, that, and the overpopulation and the fact that any drugs, let alone drugs that may help, are widely unavailibe in the parts of the world that need it the most, etc etc). So, I guess my advice would be load up on the deet and burn those citronella candles.
They smell good anyways and won’t turn you into a psychotic (another lovely side effect of Maleria meds.).
Love you!
Just had to say the photo at the top of this post (Offering at Sunset) is one of my favorites. It conveys such a sense of peace, and love for the area, that it makes me smile and wish i could be standing there at the edge of the world with her.
Thanks to your dad for the Avian Flu information. That’s the most concise and informative summary i’ve read yet. I don’t know anything about the medications, so i’ll say that i agree about the luck of life – you prepare as much as you can for the known, cross your fingers, and head out into the unknown.
Hi, For all you sitting on the edge of your seats, just wanted to let you know Julie and Kai decided, and are probably on their way as you read this, to go to Malaysia. It takes them a while to create a new post. I’m looking forward to next update and pictures! But I’m wondering, did you sell the surf boards? Or are you still lugging them around? Love, Dianne
Since Kai extended his G-Land trip we havent finalised any decisions, except that we will be leaving Bali for Kuala Limpur. And we will decide there what to do. Kai says the surf is the best he has had, even with a few cuts. We will probably keep one board here in Bali but who knows he might have sold them already. He comes back tomorrow and I am eager to see G-Land pictures and him!
This Bird flu stuff is no joke. As much as we try there is no way to avoid birds here, as Bali is covered with free range chickens. Don’t worry Lance, we are taking your precautions seriously.
Dear Ones,
What a wonderful position to be in. What I mean to say is that you have infinite posibilities to chose from. The ones that you have posted and many more. I would say spend some quiet time asking yourselves what is that would make your hearts sing with joy to do and then don’t really think about it or figue it out just let something arise . Then of course it is good to consider the factors involved but I would say that as many have mentioned that all of life is a risk so take proper precautions and then follow your bliss. I know that you are supported in all ways and hope to hear about the direction that you will pursue soon. Hey Kai, I have been learning to surf on an old beater 1980’s 6’ neon green/yellow board with some gnarly dings that have the board waterlogged. As some little 16 yr old grom told me after I got up successfully for the first time after about my 4th time on the water, “you are ruined man, the addiction begins here.” He’s right. Julie I hope that you are full of that great big smile that you carry always.
Love you guys,
devin